Dubai

Desert dunes at sunrise, rooftop pools at sunset and a stopover that turns into a holiday.

Metro runs along Sheikh Zayed Road; Friday brunch is a local institution.

Dubai is the easiest stopover in the world to enjoy: a modern airport, a metro that runs to the beach, and a city that stays open late. Beyond the skyline there is a real old town along the creek, a desert twenty minutes from the last high-rise and, in winter, some of the best outdoor weather anywhere. Come between November and March; summer is for pools and malls.

Downtown for the fountain and Burj Khalifa views; Marina and JBR for beach mornings and evening walks; Deira and Bur Dubai for the creek, the souks and prices that are a third of the beach hotels. The metro Red Line links Downtown, Marina and the airport, so pick by mood rather than by distance. Families do well at JBR; couples on a budget at Bur Dubai.

Day 1: Al Fahidi lanes, an abra across the creek for a coin, the gold and spice souks, sunset at the Frame. Day 2: Kite Beach morning, Burj Khalifa at 5 pm for day-to-night, dinner watching the fountain. Day 3: Desert safari at 3 pm (dune bashing, camel ride, dinner under the stars), or a day trip to Abu Dhabi's Grand Mosque. Book the Burj and the safari ahead; they sell out on weekends.

Dubai eats from everywhere. For Emirati food try machboos and luqaimat at a heritage restaurant in Al Fahidi. The Pakistani and Indian canteens of Karama and Deira serve the city's best-value dinners; the Lebanese grills of Jumeirah the best late lunches. Friday brunch is a ritual: fixed price, hours long, book ahead. Alcohol is served in licensed hotel venues only.

DXB is one of the busiest hubs on earth and sits inside the city; the Red Line metro runs from Terminals 1 and 3. Buy a Nol card and use metro, tram and buses; taxis are metered and plentiful, ride-hailing apps work. Walking between districts is rarely practical; walking within Marina, Downtown or the creek is a pleasure in winter. DWC is the second airport, far to the south.

Dubai can be as expensive or as cheap as you make it: a metro ride and a shawarma cost a few dirhams, a Burj ticket or a brunch runs into three figures. Dress is relaxed but modest in malls and old town. Public displays of affection and photographing people without permission are best avoided. Tipping around 10% is customary in restaurants. Tap water is safe.